Zooty Owl's Crafty Blog

COLOURFUL CROCHET AND CRAFT

Showing posts with label CAL. Show all posts
Showing posts with label CAL. Show all posts

Tuesday, 13 June 2017

RAINBOWS AFTER THE RAIN: 3

Hi there Zooty Owl CAL-ers and welcome to Part 3 of our Rainbows After the Rain (RAR) CAL, which I am hosting along with Andrea of KOKOPELLI

Your squares are all looking pretty amazing so far - and I can almost not wait to see the finished projects!

If you are new to the CAL please read the following posts first:

INTRODUCTION
RAINBOWS AFTER THE RAIN: 1
RAINBOWS AFTER THE RAIN: 2

For Part 3 of the RAINBOWS AFTER THE RAIN CAL (Poncho & Blanket) we will be making OVER THE RAINBOW SQUARES

"Take a little time baby
See the butterflies' colors
Listen to the birds that were sent
To sing for me and you
Can you feel me
This is such a wonderful place to be
Even if there is pain now
Everything would be all right
For as long as the world still turns
There will be night and day
Can you hear me
There's a rainbow always after the rain"

South Border "Rainbow"

*************************************

The OVER THE RAINBOW SQUARE is exactly the same for both the Blanket and the Poncho - 30cm x 30cm.   

OVER THE RAINBOW SQUARE (3)

KOKOPELLI'S POST FOR PART 3

Please join our Facebook Group if you are joining in as all new and previous links can be found in the ZOOTY OWL CROCHET-A-LONG GROUP FILES

RAR BLANKET & PONCHO: PART 3

OVER THE RAINBOW SQUARE

FOR THE BLANKET - MAKE 2
FOR THE PONCHO – MAKE 4


PATTERN TERMS:    US

YARN:  Elle Charity Chunky (12 ply).   Stylecraft Special Chunky is an excellent quality / great value alternative yarn.

HOOK SIZE:  5.50mm (I/9 US or 5 CANADIAN)

SQUARE SIZE:    The Layout Measurement of 30cm x 30cm (12 inches x 12 inches) for this square is based on the above yarn and hook size.  This measurement is also based on the Designer’s tension.   You may need to adjust your hook size up if you hook tightly or down if you hook loosely

NOTE:  The size of your square will depend on your choice of yarn thickness and hook size.   Should you choose to work exactly according to the RAINBOWS AFTER THE RAIN BLANKET or PONCHO layout, simply repeat the final round of the pattern until the square measures 30cm x 30cm (12 inches x 12 inches).  Gauge is not too important with this project. Yarn thicknesses vary somewhat from brand to brand as do the tensions of individual crocheters.  The most important thing is that your tension remains even throughout the project.
 
COLOURWAY:   Each crocheter may choose his / her own colour layout - colour changes / breaks are suggestions only.

SQUARES are worked in the round with Right Side Facing throughout.

IMPORTANT:  Read through pattern before starting to crochet.

Foundation:  Make a MAGIC RING or crochet 3ch, sl st into 3rd chain from hook to form a ring

Round 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 11 dc into ring, sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close.   Break off yarn.
Stitch count:  12dc

Round 2:  Join yarn in top of any dc, 5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch);  *1dc into next dc, 2ch* repeat *to* 10 times more.  Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close.  Break off yarn.
Stitch count:  12 x 1dc, 2ch

Round 3:  Join yarn in any 2ch sp.  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same sp as join;  *3dc into next 2ch sp* repeat *to* 10 times more.  Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close.  Break off yarn.
Stitch count:  12 x 3dc groups.


NOTE:  In Rounds 4 to 8 your circle will increase by 12sts each round.    The increase is worked alternatively into the centre stitch or centre space of the stitches between fpdc posts on each group.

Round 4:  Join yarn in 2nd dc of any 3dc group.   3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same dc as join, 1fpdc around next dc of (third of 3dc group), 2ch;  *into next 3dc group:  1fpdc around 1st dc, 2dc into 2nd dc, 1fpdc around 3rd dc, 2ch* repeat *to* 10 times more;  1fpdc around 1st dc of beginning 3dc group.   Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close.  Break off yarn.
Stitch count: 12 x (1fpdc, 2dc, 1fpdc) groups and 12 x 2ch spaces


Round 5:  Join yarn in middle space between the 2dc of any group.   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same sp as join, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch;  *1fpdc around fpdc of next group, 3dc into space between 2dc, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch* repeat *to* 10 times more;  1fpdc around fpdc of beginning group.   Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close.  Break off yarn.
Stitch count:  12 x (1fpdc, 3dc, 1fpdc) groups and 12 x 2ch spaces.




Round 6:  Join yarn in 2nd dc of any group.   3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc into same dc as join, 1fpdc around fpdc, 2ch;  *1fpdc around fpdc of next group, 4dc into 2nd of 3dc, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch* repeat *to* 10 x more;  1fpdc around fpdc of beginning group.   Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close.  Break off yarn.
Stitch count:  12 x (1fpdc, 4dc, 1fpdc) groups and 12 x 2ch spaces


Round 7:  Join yarn in the middle sp of the 4dc of any group.   3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same sp as join, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch;  *1fpdc around fpdc of next group, 5dc into centre sp of next 4dc, 1fpdc around next  fpdc, 2ch* repeat *to* 10 times more;  1fpdc around fpdc of beginning group.   Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close.  Break off yarn.
Stitch count:  12 x (1fpdc, 5dc, 1fpdc) groups and 12 x 2ch spaces.


Round 8:  Join yarn in 3rd dc of any group.   3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same dc as join, 1fpdc around fpdc, 2ch;  *1fpdc around fpdc of next group, 6dc into 3rd of 5dc, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch* repeat *to* 10 times more;  1fpdc around fpdc of beginning group.   Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close.  Break off yarn.
Stitch count:  12 x (1fpdc, 6dc, 1fpdc) groups and 12 x 2ch spaces.


Round 9:  Join yarn in middle sp of 6dc group (between 3rd and 4th dc)  3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same dc as join, 1fpdc around fpdc, 2ch;  *1fpdc around fpdc of next group, 6dc into middle sp of 6dc, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch* repeat *to* 10 times more;  1fpdc around fpdc of beginning group.   Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close.  Break off yarn.
Stitch count:  12 x (1fpdc, 6dc, 1fpdc) groups and 12 x 2ch spaces


Round 10:  Join yarn in 1st dc of any 6dc group.  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 2dc, 1ch, 1dc into each of next 3dc, 1fpdc around fpdc, 2ch; *1fpdc around fpdc of next group, 1dc into each of next 3dc, 1ch, 1dc into each of next 3dc, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch* repeat *to* 10 times more;  1fpdc around fpdc of beginning group.   Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close.  Break off yarn.
Stitch count:  12 x (1fpdc, 3dc, 1ch, 3dc, 1fpdc) groups and 12 x 2ch spaces


Round 11:  Join yarn in any 1ch sp.  2ch (counts as 1hdc), 2hdc into same 1ch sp, 3ch;  1fptrc around fpdc, 3ch, 1fptrc around fpdc; *3ch, 3hdc into next 1ch sp, 3ch;  1fptrc around fpdc, 3ch, 1fptrc around fpdc* repeat *to* 10 times more.   3ch, sl st into 2nd of beginning ch to close.   Break off yarn.
Stitch count:  12 x (1fptrc, 3ch, 3hdc, 3ch, 1fptrc) groups and 12 x 3ch spaces


In the next round corners will be added to start making it square.

Round 12:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp between 2 fptrc posts.   3ch, 1trc (counts as 2trc tog), 2ch, 2trc tog, 3ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog, into same 3ch sp as join, 2ch; *3trc tog into next 3ch sp, 2ch;  3dc tog into next 3ch sp, 2ch;  3hdc into next 3ch sp, 2ch;  (3sc into next 3ch sp, 2ch) x2; 3hdc into next 3ch sp, 2ch;  3dc tog into next 3ch sp, 2ch;  3trc tog into next 3ch sp, 2ch; (2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog, 3ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog) into next 3ch sp, corner made, 2ch* repeat *to* three times more omitting the last corner and 2ch.   Sl st into top of beginning 2trc tog to close.  Break off yarn.
Stitch count:  (2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog, 3ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog) into each corner.  
(2 x 3trc tog; 2 x 3dc tog;  6hdc, 6sc and 9 x 2ch spaces) on each side.


Round 13:  Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp.  3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same 3ch sp as join;  *(2dc into next 2ch sp) x2, (3hdc into next 2ch sp) x2;  (3sc into next 2ch sp) x3;  (3hdc into next 2ch sp) x2;  (2dc into next 2ch sp) x2;  5dc into 3ch corner sp* repeat *to* three times more omitting the last 5dc on last repeat.  Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close.   Break off yarn.
Stitch count:   5dc in each corner.   29sts (8dc, 12hdc and 9sc) on each side.


Round 14:  Join yarn in 3rd dc of corner 5dc,  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 2ch, 2dc into same dc, *1dc into each of next 33sts, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) into next dc, corner made* repeat *to* 3 times more omitting  corner at the end of last repeat. Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close.  Break off yarn.
Stitch count:  (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in each corner.   33dc on each side.

Tuesday, 16 May 2017

RAINBOWS AFTER THE RAIN: 1

Hello lovely crocheters and welcome (at long last!) to the Kick Off of our Rainbows After the Rain (RAR) CAL, which I will be hosting along with Andrea of KOKOPELLI DESIGN! If you have already been following along you can launch right in to this post.    If you are new to the CAL please read my INTRODUCTION POST first.

For Part 1 of the CAL (Poncho & Blanket) we will be making TRADITIONAL GRANNY SQUARES.

There was a picture in my head of the gorgeous photos I would take for this post........ and then it started raining and raining and raining (for close onto a week now!) ...... and no rainbow in sight!    So we will just have to make do with the not-so-great photos previously taken.

Pinks and Greens are an all-time favourite combination of mine, and the neon(y) shades available in the Charity Chunky were perfect for the bright and cheerful "Neonmelon" Blanket


Some Woodstock photos doing the rounds on the internet really inspired me to achieve a sort of "hippie rainbow" look with the blanket and poncho.   I loved tie-dying (just about every) t-shirts and cloths when I had a big outdoor craft space and a much stronger back and hands!.    I also did a lot of Batik work and so the colours and design for the circular parts were a bit of a swirl of ideas from cloths and wall hangings made in my really colourful younger years! 
To get the tie-dye look is just a little trick of alternating lights, brights and neutrals.    Think of the neutrals as the part of the cloth that are tied or waxed so they do not pick up on the dyes.
Also your outer layers of the "scrunch" pick up a heavier dose of dye, and the inner "scrunch" gets a much lighter dose.


The name for the CAL "Rainbows After the Rain" was not chosen lightly.   Grief is not something we "decide" to switch off one day, to suddenly become silly happy again.   I chatted to fellow Blogstar Phil of  THE TWISTED YARN about my apprehension that this title would give the impression that grief should somehow be measured and dealt with.    This was not just an idle "bloggy" conversation as Phil is actually Dr Phil Saul, an NHS clinical psychologist.   Phil kindly offered to put my intentions into words for me (she has a way with words and I knew she would be able to get this across way better than I would!)

This is what she wrote:

"If you’ve been reading here a while, then you’ll remember a previous crochet-a-long (CAL), ‘Wade’s Blanket’, which was named to honour a little boy who fought – and, tragically, lost – a hard battle against childhood leukaemia. That was two years ago. Wade’s family and Zelna’s family are close, and those were dark days, compounded by the loss of Zelna’s mother to motor neurone disease soon afterwards. For Zelna, crochet provided some small comfort through the worst of her grief. Those of you who have lost dear ones will probably be able to relate to the raw agony and rage and confusion of those days.

But what happens next? What happens after the early stages of grief – however long they last – have been endured? What happens when you’re ready to move beyond just putting one foot in front of the other, and you begin to lift your eyes from the ground, to look cautiously ahead?

That’s what this new CAL is about.

Nobody’s saying that grief magically goes away: of course it doesn’t. People often refer instead to making a space in their hearts to accommodate the pain, whilst carrying on. Because ultimately, we do have to carry on.

Rainbow After The Rain is about rediscovering hope. It’s about accepting the feeling of the sun’s warmth on one’s skin again, as gaps begin to appear between the rainclouds. It’s about daring to believe that there may be joy and growth ahead. And it’s about giving oneself permission to seek that joy and growth. It’s about finding peace and comfort, and about rediscovering the beauty of the world.

What on earth could possibly symbolise all of that better than a rainbow?

Each component of this CAL will offer a meditation on healing, with titles such as "Wheel of Time", "Ribbons of Hope" and "Somedays are Diamonds".

How does a Traditional Granny Square fit the theme?   There is nothing "uncertain" about a granny square - and the simple reassurance that the square WILL work out no matter what, is a great comfort!    The traditional granny square is timeless, like the words of a favourite poem by e.e.cummings:

"- how fortunate are you and I, whose home is timelessness:   we who have wandered down from fragrant mountains of eternal now

to frolic in such mysteries as birth
and death a day (or maybe even less)"

*************************************

To avoid confusion the Poncho and Blanket layouts will be published separately.    In addition some of the Poncho and Blanket Patterns will be published separately, as there are small variations in the squares. 

All new and previous links can be found in the ZOOTY OWL CROCHET-A-LONG GROUP FILES

BLANKET - PART 1 LINKS:

BLANKET LAYOUT

TRADITIONAL GRANNY SQUARE (1)

PONCHO - PART 1 LINKS:

PONCHO LAYOUT


TRADITIONAL GRANNY SQUARE (1)

KOKOPELLI'S POST FOR PART 1

RAR PONCHO CAL: PART 1

TRADITIONAL GRANNY SQUARE (make 10)


 
PATTERN TERMS:    US



YARN:  Elle Charity Chunky (12 ply).   Stylecraft Special Chunky is an excellent quality / great value alternative yarn.

HOOK SIZE:  5.50mm (I/9 US or 5
CANADIAN) 

SQUARE SIZE:   The Layout Measurement of 15cm x 15cm (5.9 inches x 5.9 inches) for this square is based on the above yarn and hook size.  This measurement is also based on the Designer’s tension.   You may need to adjust your hook size up if you hook tightly or down if you hook loosely
 

NOTE:  The size of your square will depend on your choice of yarn thickness and hook size.   Should you choose to work exactly according to the RAINBOWS AFTER THE RAIN PONCHO layout, simply repeat the final round of the pattern until the square measures 15cm x 15cm .  Gauge is not too important with this poncho. Yarn thicknesses vary somewhat from brand to brand as do the tensions of individual crocheters.  The most important thing is that your tension remains even throughout the poncho.
  
COLOURWAY:   Each crocheter may choose his / her own colour layout - colour changes / breaks are suggestions only.


SQUARES are worked in the round with Right Side Facing throughout.


IMPORTANT:  Read through pattern before starting to crochet. 

 
Foundation:  Start with a magic ring; alternatively crochet 3ch;   sl st into 3rd chain from hook to form a circle


Round 1:   5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch),  (3dc into ring, 2ch) 3 times;  2dc into ring;   sl st into 3rd of beginning 5ch to close.  
 

Stitch Count:  3dc each side and 2ch in each corner. 


Round 2:   sl st into 2ch space;    3ch (counts as 1dc);  (2dc, 2ch, 3dc) into 2ch space;   (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space) x3;    sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row.    Break off yarn.
 

Stitch Count:  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in each corner.


Round 3:  Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groups;   3ch (counts as 1dc) or crochet a standing dc,   2dc into same space;   *(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into space between 3dc groups* Repeat *to* twice more;   (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch, sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row.   Break off yarn.
 

Stitch Count:  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in each corner and 1 x 3dc grouping each side.


Round 4:  Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groupings before any corner 3dc.  3ch (counts as 1dc) or crochet a standing dc,  2dc into same space;  *(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into each space between 3dc groups to corner*  repeat from *to* twice more, (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch, 3dc into space between 3dc groupings;  sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row.    Break off yarn.
 

Stitch count:  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in each corner and 6dc (2 x 3dc groupings) each side.



Round 5:   Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groupings before any corner 3dc;   3ch (counts as 1dc ) or crochet a standing dc,   2dc into same space;   *(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into each space between 3dc groups to next corner* Repeat *to* twice more;   (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into each space between 3dc groups to start 3dc group, sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row.     Break off yarn.
 

Stitch count:  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in each corner and 9dc (3 x 3dc groupings) each side.


Round 6:  Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groupings before any corner 3dc;   2ch (counts as 1hdc) or crochet a standing hdc,   2hdc into same space;   *(3hdc, 2ch, 3hdc) into corner 2ch;   3hdc into each space between 3dc groups to next corner* Repeat *to* twice more;   (3hdc, 2ch, 3hdc) into corner 2ch;   3hdc into each space between 3dc groups to beginning 3ch,  sl st into 2nd of beginning 2ch to close row.     Break off yarn.

Stitch count:  (3hdc, 2ch, 3hdc) in each corner and 12hdc (4 x 3hdc groupings) each side.



RAR PONCHO LAYOUT


RAR BLANKET LAYOUT


Monday, 15 May 2017

RAR BLANKET CAL: PART 1

TRADITIONAL GRANNY SQUARE (MAKE 5)


PATTERN TERMS:    US


YARN:  Elle Charity Chunky (12 ply).   Stylecraft Special Chunky is an excellent quality / great value alternative yarn.

HOOK SIZE:  5.50mm (I/9 US / 5 CANADIAN)

SQUARE SIZE:    The Layout Measurement of 20cm x 20cm (7.9inches x 7.9inches) for this square is based on the above yarn and hook size.  This measurement is also based on the Designer’s tension.   You may need to adjust your hook size up if you hook tightly or down if you hook loosely

NOTE:  The size of your square will depend on your choice of yarn thickness and hook size.   Should you choose to work exactly according to the RAINBOWS AFTER THE RAIN BLANKET layout, simply repeat the final round of the pattern until the square measures 20cm x 20cm.  Gauge is not too important with this blanket. Yarn thicknesses vary somewhat from brand to brand as do the tensions of individual crocheters.  The most important thing is that your tension remains even throughout the blanket.

COLOURWAY:   Each crocheter may choose his / her own colour layout - colour changes / breaks are suggestions only.

SQUARES are worked in the round with Right Side Facing throughout.

IMPORTANT:  Read through pattern before starting to crochet.

Foundation:  Start with a magic ring; alternatively crochet 3ch;   sl st into 3rd chain from hook to form a circle

Round 1:   5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch),  (3dc into ring, 2ch) 3 times;  2dc into ring;   sl st into 3rd of beginning 5ch to close.

Stitch Count:  3dc each side and 2ch in each corner.



Round 2:   sl st into 2ch space;    3ch (counts as 1dc);  (2dc, 2ch, 3dc) into 2ch space;   (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space) x3;    sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row.    Break off yarn.

Stitch Count:  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in each corner.


Round 3:  Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groups;   3ch (counts as 1dc) or crochet a standing dc,   2dc into same space;   *(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into space between 3dc groups* Repeat *to* twice more;   ( 3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch, sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row.    Break off yarn.

Stitch Count:  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in each corner and 1 x 3dc grouping each side.


Round 4:  Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groupings before any corner 3dc.  3ch (counts as 1dc) or crochet a standing dc,  2dc into same space;  *(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into each space between 3dc groups to corner*  repeat from *to* twice more, (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch, 3dc into space between 3dc groupings;  sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row.    Break off yarn.

Stitch count:  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in each corner and 6dc (2 x 3dc groupings) each side.


Round 5:   Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groupings before any corner 3dc;   3ch (counts as 1dc ) or crochet a standing dc,   2dc into same space;   *(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into each space between 3dc groups to next corner* Repeat *to* twice more;   (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into each space between 3dc groups to start 3dc group, sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row.     Break off yarn.

Stitch count:  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in each corner and 9dc (3 x 3dc groupings) each side.


Round 6:  Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groupings before any corner 3dc;   3ch (counts as 1dc ) or crochet a standing dc,   2dc into same space;   *(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into each space between 3dc groups to next corner* Repeat *to* twice more;   (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into each space between 3dc groups to beginning 3ch,  sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row.     Break off yarn

Stitch count:  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in each corner and 12dc (4 x 3dc groupings) each side.


Round 7:  Repeat Round 6.

Stitch count:  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in each corner and 15dc (5 x 3dc groupings) each side.


Round 8:  Repeat Round 6.

Stitch count:  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in each corner and 18dc (6 x 3dc groupings) each side.



Thursday, 29 September 2016

Port Shepstone Mandala

Hello Seaside CAL-ers!

I hurt my elbow a few weeks back and the pain has been getting gradually worse.   I have been trying to rest my arm as much as possible - only crocheting for a few minutes at a time, so my carefully planned schedule has taken a bit of a knock! 
I added a few rows to the Port Shepstone centre to make a matching mandala.   The Mandala is not part of the Seaside Winter Blanket and is an optional extra.



PORT SHEPSTONE MANDALA PATTERN:

PATTERN TERMS:  US

Follow the link provided, work up Rounds 1 - 8 of the PORT SHEPSTONE SQUARE  and then come back here to complete the mandala.

Round 9:  Join yarn in any 3ch space.  [3ch, 1trc in same sp as join (counts as 2trc tog);  (2trc tog, 3ch) x4 (fan);  (skip 4sc, 1sc into each of next 5sc, skip 4sc)]

[2trc tog, (3ch, 2trc tog into same 3ch sp) x4;  (skip 4sc, 1sc into each of next 5sc, skip 4sc)] x7.   Sl st into top of start 2dc tog to close.   Break off yarn.



Round 10:  Join yarn in 1st 3ch of any fan.  [4hdc into same sp as join;  (4hdc into next 3ch sp) x3;  6ch]

[(4hdc into next 3ch sp) x4;  6ch] x7.  Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.



Round 11:  Join yarn in 1st hdc on any fan.   2ch (counts as 1hdc);  1hdc into each of next 15hdc; [hold ch to the front of your work, work 1trc into sc behind ch (Round 9);  hold ch to the back of your work, work 1trc into sc in front of chain.) x2   hold ch to the front of your work, work 1trc into sc behind ch];

{1hdc into each of next 15hdc;  [hold ch to the front of your work, work 1trc into sc behind ch (Round 9);  hold ch to the back of your work, work 1trc into sc in front of chain.) x2   hold ch to the front of your work, work 1trc into sc behind ch]} x7.   Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.



Row 12:  Join yarn in any stitch.   Sl st in each stitch around mandala.  Sl st in start sl st to close.   Or join using the INVISIBLE JOIN


Friday, 23 September 2016

Seaside Winter Blanket: South Coast Edging

Hello and welcome Seaside CAL-ers! 

Your blankets are all looking quite spectacular and I know a lot of you are eagerly awaiting the edging!    I have provided two slightly different edgings for you to choose from - one a straight lacy edge (Edging A) and the and the other a delicate ruffle (Edging B).  (Note:   Edging B is a very time consuming, yarn hungry edging.)

South Coast Edging:

Special Stitch:
Picot - 3ch, sl st into 1st chain, continue with next stitch


Round 1 (A & B):   Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp;  4ch (counts as 1sc, 3ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join, 3ch;  [skip 2hdc group, 1sc into sp between 2hdc groups; 3ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp.

{(1sc, 3ch, 1sc into 3ch corner sp, 3ch);  (skip 2hdc group, 1sc into sp between next 2hdc groups, 3ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp} x3.   Sl st into 1st of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.





Edging A 

Round 2:   Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp;  4ch (counts as 1sc, 3ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join, 3ch  (1sc into next 3ch sp, 3ch) repeat to next 3ch corner sp.

[(1sc, 3ch, 1sc into corner 3ch sp), 3ch, (1sc into next 3ch sp, 3ch) repeat to next 3ch corner] x3.   Sl St into 1st of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.


Round 3:  Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp.  [3ch (counts as 1dc), (1dc, picot, 2dc into same sp as join)];  (1dc, picot, 1dc into next 3ch sp) repeat to corner 3ch;

[(2dc, picot, 2dc into corner 3ch sp) (1dc, picot, 1dc into next 3ch sp) repeat to corner 3ch] x3;  sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.


Edging B 

Round 2:  Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp;  6ch (counts as 1sc, 5ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join, 5ch  (1sc into next 3ch sp, 5ch) repeat to next 3ch corner sp.

[(1sc, 5ch, 1sc into corner 3ch sp), 5ch, (1sc into next 3ch sp, 5ch) repeat to next 3ch corner] x3.   Sl St into 1st of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 3:  Join yarn in any 5ch corner sp.  [4ch (counts as 1trc), (1trc, picot, 2trc, picot, 2trc into same sp as join)];  (1trc, picot, 1trc, picot, 1trc into next 5ch sp) repeat to corner 5ch;[(2trc, picot, 2trc, picot, 2trc into corner 5ch);  (1trc, picot, 1trc, picot, 1trc into next 5ch sp) repeat to corner 5ch]  x3;  sl st into 4th of start ch to close.  Break off yarn 



PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group

Friday, 16 September 2016

Seaside Winter Blanket: South Coast Border (2)

Hello and welcome Seaside CAL-ers!  

This week we will be working on Rounds 5 - 8 of the border.    The 8 round pattern is "universal" which means that you can repeat it over and over again and your stitch count should remain correct.

If you would like a narrow, simple border crochet only the foundation rounds and 1 x the eight round pattern.

Should you require a more dramatic border, crochet the foundation rounds and repeat the 8 round pattern twice or more.

SOUTH COAST BORDER (2)

PATTERN TERMS:  US

SPECIAL STITCHES

Popcorn Stitch:  (Ps) = 3dc then remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back on the first dc, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through

Note:  your start popcorn stitch (SPs) is worked as follows:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc then remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back in the 3rd ch, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through

Pattern Round 5:   Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp;  3ch (counts as 1sc, 2ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join, 2ch;  [skip 2dc group, 1sc into sp between 2dc groups; 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp.

{(1sc, 2ch, 1sc into 3ch corner sp, 2ch);  (skip 2dc group, 1sc into sp between next 2dc groups, 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp} x3.   Sl st into 1st of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.



Pattern Round 6:  Join yarn in corner 2ch sp.  (1SPs, 3ch, 1Ps in same 2ch corner sp, 2ch);  (1Ps into next 2ch sp, 2ch) repeat to next 2ch corner sp;

[(1Ps, 3ch, 1Ps into 2ch corner sp, 2ch);  ( 1Ps into next 2ch sp, 2ch) repeat to next 2ch corner sp] x3.  Sl st into top of SPs to close.  Break off yarn

Note:   Popcorn stitches are very "yarn greedy".   A more yarn economical option is to substitute the Popcorn Stitch with a 2dc tog.



Pattern Round 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp.  3ch (counts as 1sc, 2ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join, 2ch;  [skip Ps, 1sc into next 2ch sp; 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp.

{(1sc, 2ch, 1sc into 3ch corner sp);  (skip Ps, 1sc into next 2ch sp, 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp} x3.   Sl st into 1st of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.



Pattern Round 8:  Join yarn in any 2ch corner;  [2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc, 3ch, 2hdc into same sp as join];  2hdc  into each 2ch sp until you reach next corner;

[(2hdc,3ch, 2hdc into 2ch corner sp);  2hdc into each 2ch sp until you reach next corner] x3.   Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group

Thursday, 15 September 2016

Seaside Winter Blanket: St Mike's Coaster

Good Morning CAL-ers!


For the bonus coaster pattern I have added a border and edging to the circular part of the St Michael's-on-Sea Square.   (Note:   this pattern is an optional extra and is not incorporated into the Seaside Winter Blanket)


ST MIKE'S COASTER PATTERN:

PATTERN TERMS:  US

Follow the link provided, work up Rounds 1 - 4 of the ST MICHAEL'S-ON-SEA SQUARE  and then come back here to complete the coaster.

Round 5:  Join yarn in top of any 3dc tog;  [3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same place as join];  (6dc into top of next 3dc tog) x 11.  (12 x 6dc Shells).  Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 6:  Join yarn in top of any dc,  (1ch, sl st into next dc) * repeat for the full round.   Sl St into start 1ch to close.


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Many thanks to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES & MORE for testing this pattern.

Wednesday, 14 September 2016

Seaside Winter Blanket: Port Edward Mandala

Hello Seaside CAL-ers.

I have added a border and edging row to the Port Edward Square to make a matching mandala.   The Mandala is not part of the Seaside Winter Blanket and is an optional extra.


PORT EDWARD MANDALA PATTERN:

PATTERN TERMS:  US

Follow the link provided, work up Rounds 1 - 12 of the PORT EDWARD SQUARE  and then come back here to complete the mandala.

Round 13:  Join yarn in standing sc.  [3ch, 1trc  (counts as 2trc tog);  (2ch, 2trc tog) x3 into same sp as join], skip 4sc;  1sc into next sc;  skip 4sc;

{[2trc tog;  (2ch, 2trc tog) x3 into next sc]; skip 4sc;  1sc into next sc;  skip 4sc} x 15.  Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close   Break off yarn.

Round 14:  Join yarn in sp to the right of any sc,  1ch,; sl st into sp to the left of sc, 1ch; (sl st into top of  2trc tog, 1ch;  sl st into next 2ch sp, 1ch) x3;  sl st into top of 2trc tog, 1ch;

[sl st into sp to the right of next sc, 1ch;  sl st into sp to the left of sc, 1ch;  (sl st into top of 2trc tog, 1ch, sl st into 2ch sp, 1ch) x 3;   sl st into top of 2trc tog, 1ch] x15;  sl st into start 1ch to close.   Break off yarn.
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Many thanks to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES & MORE for testing this pattern.

Friday, 9 September 2016

Seaside Winter Blanket: South Coast Border (1)

Hello and welcome Seaside CAL-ers!   

Our last stop at the colourful craft village of Umnini marked our last stop along the lovely Kwa Zulu Natal South Coast.  

For me,  putting a blanket together is like building a scrapbook page (one of my favourite things to do)!    The squares are the photos (the happy memories gathered along the way), the border is the pretty paper used to showcase them and the edging is the embelishment!     

The VISIBLE JOIN my Great Grandmother taught me many decades ago has always been my go-to join for blankets of different square patterns with a definite right side.    The join is very forgiving and displays as a pretty "stitch" on the right side of the work.   It does not demand expert and precise crocheting for a neat result!!

In order to obtain visual balance with the border we will start with three foundation rounds before moving on to the eight round border pattern. 

If you would like a narrow, simple border crochet only the foundation rounds and 1 x the eight round pattern. 

Should you require a more dramatic border, crochet the foundation rounds and repeat the 8 round pattern twice or more.

SOUTH COAST BORDER (1)

PATTERN TERMS:  US 
 


Foundation Round 1:  Using the same colour used for your visible join, join yarn with a standing sc in any 3ch corner of your assembled blanket;  2sc into same 3ch sp;   1sc into top of each dc until you reach the next corner of your assembled blanket. (when you reach a corner on a block 1sc into 3ch corner of that block, 1sc into loop of  join, 1sc into 3ch corner of) next block.

(3sc into next 3ch corner sp;  1sc into top of each dc to next corner) 33.  Sl st into standing sc at start of round to close.   Break off yarn.

Notewhen you reach a corner on a joined block 1sc into 3ch corner of that block, 1sc into loop of  join, 1sc into 3ch corner of) next block.  

Foundation Round 2:  Using same colour used for the square's border rounds, join yarn in 2nd sc of any corner 3sc.   3ch (counts as 1dc: 4dc into same sc.   1dc into each sc until you reach the 2nd sc on the next corner;

(5dc into 2nd sc of corner 3sc;  1dc into each sc until you reach the 2nd sc on the next corner) x3.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Do not break off yarn.

Foundation Round 3:   3ch, 1dc into next dc;  (2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next dc);  1dc into each dc until you reach the 3rd dc on the next corner 5dc;

[(2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3rd of corner 5dc);  1dc into each dc unti lyou reach the 3rd dc on the next corner 5dc] x3.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.


The sides of your blanket may or may not have an even stitch count at the end of Foundation Round 3.   

Pattern Round 1 also serves as a "correction" round.   If you have an even number of stitches this round will work out exactly.    If, however, you have an odd number you will be left with 1 extra (odd) stitch.   In this case treat the single stitch as two stitches in accordance with the pattern.   Should you be pedantic about the appearance of stitch count, I suggest crocheting Pattern Round 1 in the same colour as your last two foundation rows as this will make the stitch correction "invisible"

Pattern Round 1Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp.   3ch (counts as 1sc, 2ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join[skip 1sp between dc (2dc posts), 1sc into next sp between dc; 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp.

{(1sc, 2ch, 1sc into 3ch corner sp);  (skip 1sp between dc (2dc posts), 1sc into next sp between dc; 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp} x3.   Sl st into 1st of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.



Pattern Round 2:  Join yarn in any 2ch corner;  [3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same sp as join];  2dc (2dc group) into each 2ch sp until you reach next corner;

[(2dc,3ch, 2dc into 2ch corner sp);  2dc (2dc group) into each 2ch sp until you reach next corner] x3.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.



Pattern Round 3:  Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp[3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same 3ch corner];  (2dc into sp between each 2dc group) repeat until you reach the next 3ch corner sp;

[(2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next corner sp);  (2dc into sp between each 2dc group) repeat until you reach the next 3ch corner sp] x3.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.



Pattern Round 4:  Repeat Round 3


Note:   The border should lay flat.   If you find your border "ruffling"  you may have too many stitches.   Extra stitches are usually picked up over a join - make sure that you only have 3 stitches at each join - 1 in the first corner space, 1 into the join and 1 in the 2nd corner space.   Skip the first stitch after working into the 2nd corner space.    Switch to a smaller hook - if you used a 4.00mm try a 3.50mm or a 3.00mm

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group